Khaite’s Pre-Fall 2021 collection presents pieces that are as resilient as the times require us to be
What does a woman coming out of isolation look like?
Some are yearning for a bevy of bright colors, yet Khaite’s collection is more confrontational than escapist. A prevalent palette of black and white, with models reminiscent of Natalie Portman in V for Vendetta imbibe an air of: “I’m going through something.”
An investment piece is the shopper’s salve for shifting times and for this, Khaite stuck to its strength: a luxury take on wardrobe staples. Khaite understood that women are looking for something new, yet reliable.
Leather was aplenty; in the form of all-black trench coats, skirts, and boots. But before things got too stuffy, subtle statements were to be had in coats with oversized lapels, skirts styled with fishnet stockings, and for a break from black and white: metallics. A pair of over the knee gold boots and gold jacquard patterns also added a refreshing glimmer of light.
Tactility was another theme, perhaps to appease our increasingly digital lives. A cashmere boucle hoodie offered a casual take on one of the brand’s signature fabrics. Standout pieces include a chestnut-colored bomber jacket and blue heeled sandals—both in richly textured suede. Other distinctly Khaite styles returned: from sculptural knit dresses, ruched ensembles, and bubble skirts. While for those still pining for the comfort of their pillows, puffy tote bags leant some softness.
In lieu of a physical runway show, Khaite’s collection is viewable on their website by way of a short film, a lookbook, and augmented reality. The short film is laudable in its raw portrayal of the pandemic’s reality. In an opening shot, ominous music reveals Sasha Pivovarova emerging out of darkness—pale, almost sickly. The film’s background feels as bare as an abandoned retail shop.
Their lookbook presents the collection like a print magazine. Amid the pages of outfits, nineties-inspired advertisements appear, the kind that would be plastered all around the wall of a gritty New York neighborhood. It’s a nod to the brand’s New York roots and recalls the Spring 2021 collection’s urban moodiness. While Spring’s collection only featured shoes via augmented reality, you get to preview full outfits for Pre Fall 2021.
Movement is a recurring force behind the whole collection. The clothes look commute-friendly; shown off by models sporting a “get out my way” gait. It’s reminiscent of the viral image that propelled the brand’s success in 2019: Katie Holmes, pictured in a Khaite cashmere bra and cardigan, trying to hail a cab.
One image, among all, stuck with me: Pivovarova wearing a white bubble skirt dress, while walking on a pavement. It mirrors Sarah Jessica Parker’s tutu moment in Sex and the City. Except it’s less fantastical, less whimsical. With the rollout of a vaccine, we see the light at the end of the tunnel, yet the Khaite woman knows: we’re still in that tunnel.
FURTHER REFERENCES:
Carrie Bradshaw’s Tutu Paradox by Rhonda Garelick
The rawness of Rosamund Pike in a Massive Attack music video reminds me of Khaite’s short film